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 Oxford, in the United-Kingdom, has a central place in Philip Pullman's stories, either in His Dark Materials or The Butterfly Tattoo. The author, who has been living in this city for many years, explicitely aknowledged that it is very convenient to set his stories in a place he already knows. He describes many aspects of Oxford, varying from one story to another, either set in Lyra's world on in our own. Names sometimes change, and ordinary places suddenly become the set for extraordinary events... If we cannot visit Lyra's Oxford, let's have at least an insight of our own Oxford and consider the real places described in these books. A stay in Oxford can bring you in the heart or Pullman's stories, so we'll try to tell you which places have to be seen... Note: if you're looking for locations of the TV-show, you may also like to try this page. |
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| A few words on History... | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Created in the 10th century by Saxons, Oxford is especially known for its University, dating back from the 12th century, making it the oldest of the Western world while being probably also still one of the most prestigious. Colleges were created there from the early 13th century while the city was gaining recognition for manuscripts and illuminations. Its close location to London made that Parliament or royal court took shelter at some points of the past in Oxford, in time of epidemic or political crisis. Oxford is nowadays a nevralgic center for publishing compznies and despite a decline of the industry in the late 20th century, the city still hosts a major automotive plant, producing Mini for BMW in its eastern suburb of Cowley. |
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| Places | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Oxford downtown For a first discovery of the city, simply wander and get lost among the old buidlings, in the narrow streets surrounded by white and yellow facades or high stonewalls above which emerge branches of old trees and have look through pallisssades at the green gardens and a inner stone courts, enjoy the shop windows displaying academic publications and the numerous locked bikes along black fences of colleges and gardens, notice the street names, painted in white on black boards and the many perspectives of the city: clocktowers, spires, domes, crenelations, slates, bow windows and old roofs and buildings above one another... As many movies or series were shot in Oxford, from Endeavor to Harry Potter - in addition to Sir Philip Pullman's books adaptation - some places might already look very familiar to you! But it is only the beginning... In Decembre, a Christmas market settles on Broad Street, offering many items to eat or buy... Welcome to Oxford ! The Bodleian Library The Bodleian Library was founded in 13th century and possesses a copy of every book published in the UK, constituing a collection of millions of books. The buildings hosting these made the architectural and visual identity of Oxford. Hence, the Radcliffe Camera, the big round tower topped with a dome and built over the 18th century is one of the most iconic building in Oxford; it is the home of scientific publications. The surrounding facilities, which in Pullman's trilogy are part of Jordan College, also host historical collections or are commonly used as places for gathering and events: located north of the Radcliffe Camera, the Convocation Hall and the Divinity Schoool, were both used as a set for many movies thanks to their richly decorated interiors and carved ceilings. The outer bounds of these buildings can be easily accessed but access to the books might require a subscription or a specifically booked guided tours. Entering these historical grounds is however an experience worth trying: Duke Humphrey's library, where Doctor-to-be-Dame Hannah Relf studies in La Belle Sauvage, is an exceptionnal place of dark wood and pale light, haunted by multi-centennial books. The inner space of the Sheldonian Theater is also worth a visit.
The Pitt-Rivers Museum
The Pitt-Rivers, located north of downtown Oxford is a must-see place. Divided into two atriums as different from one another as are day from night - one is bathed in sunlight through a large greenhouse and host zoological collections, the other is in perpetual darkness and host ethnological artefacts from all around the world. This is a uncommon place where we can touch stuffed animals, discover traditions of distant tribes and spot some trepaned skulls as did Lyra in The Subtle Knife. Admissions are free and opened to any contributions. Museum's website
Exeter College Exeter College is the real-world counterpart of Lyra's Jordan and also Philip Pullman's alma Mater. The author lived in the very same room he gave to Lyra in his books and made the place bigger in his books than in reality. A panoramic view from the entrance of the building allows to oversee the chapel, the quadrangle of grass of the main court and also the roof window of Lyra/Pullman's room. If you can access the chapel, you'll be able to spot a sculpted head of JRR Tolkien, author of The Lord of the Rings and former student of the college. As the place is an active college, admissions might be limited outside of week-ends and holidays. A visit better has to be planed in advance.
The Covered Market Close to Exeter College, the covered market offers what its names announces. It is a place for many odors, noises, images and colours, where it is easy to imagine Lyra running among the stores and stealing a forbidden fruit. The café George's mentionned in The Secret Commonwealth does not seem to exist in our world.
The Botanic Garden
This is THE place to be for any addict reader of Pullman's books. The bench does exist under its tree, bearing a plate in loving memory of Mary Monteath et Jane Tomkinson, who are unidentified women even to the Garden's employees. Despite the many carvings from fans around the world on the wooden bench (Will! Lyra! W! L! little hearts!), it remains a place of wonder with a beautiful and quiet surroundingsto enjoy. Admissions are only possible during daytime and cost 6.30pounds as of late 2022. The iron gate mentionned in the book still exists, the little bridge and the (amazing) many-trunked pine both disappeared a few years ago, but the low branches are still here above your head when you seat and search the tower of Magdalen college between the trees. Since 2019, a sculpture of three dæmons - Lyra's, Will's and presumably the author's - was added just behind the bench, also featuring an apple like in the Garden of Eden... Take your time to seat and then visit the Garden and its greenhouses, find a bit of quietness and wait for the bells of Magadelen College to chime: maybe, in another world, someone will accompany you in that doing...
Juxon Street
Making a trip for this sole street is not an absolute need, but it is worth a look if you go and wander arround the nearby canal and the St-Barnabas' campanile above the former and now derelict fluvial shipyard that inspired Pullman for La Belle Sauvage. Plus, at the end of this very same street you can also spot the Jericho Tavern, one of the location of The Butterfly Tattoo's plot and a few meter further, the Phoenix, a theater having Pullman as one of its patrons.
Bulwarks Lane
The narrow pathway is not the easiest to find but offers a sort of iconic view of Oxford: old stones, classical buildings hidden behind high walls and a few lamplights of another age. Lyra briefly ran through at the beginning of The Secret Commonwealth.
The White Horse and other pubs
Located close to Exeter College on Broad Street, the pub The White Horse (website) with its red signs with white letters, its decoration of wood and its witch broom in the main room (touch it if you dare!) is the setting for one brief sequence of The Secret Commonwealth. Stranded between two sections of Blackwell's library, it is a good place to seat and have a good affordable meal with a pint of locally-brewed beer. At the back of the pub, try to see if Lyra is meeting her good friend Dick... The Lamb and Flag, located on St-Giles Street, almost in front of the Eagle and Child (see below), is another pub where grown-up Malcolm briefly visits in The Secret Commonwealth. In our own world's version, you can have there a nice tea-time break with hot beverage and cake and image CS Lewis or JRR Tolkien having a drink here decades ago... The neighbour small street bearing its name leads to the Pitt-Rivers Museum (which does not exist in Lyra's world, though).
Further West If you ever want to discover new places mentionned in the brand new Secret Commonwealth, you have to head West and follow Botley Road beyond the railway station: you'll then soon walk along the allotments that Pan crosses in the first chapter of that new book. Going further along that street, you'll soon find Binsey Lane on your right. At this point you'll have Oatlands Road on the southern side of Boatley Road, a little street in which lives Dick Orchard; If you go up Binsey Lane, you can try to spot the path accross trees that Lyra uses to go and meet Giorgio Brabandt (we couldn't spot it) or cross the road bridge and walk North to reach Binsey and Port Meadow or even The Trout, using the same path that Lyra uses (in the other direction) while leaving The Trout...
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| Longer walks | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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If you're ready for a longer walk outside of the very heart of Oxford, here are a few suggestions.... Durations are only indicative and depend on your mood and physical condition...
Malcolm's whereabouts: Canals, Port Meadow, The Trout and Godstow... (approx. 11km - 3h+)
If you have a few hours and want to enjoy a little walk, let's have a La Belle Sauvage-themed tour together. The places we mention here can be visited by various locomotion means, but we'll assume that you prefer a bit of walking. Better wear walking shoes as you might use (very) muddy paths. Leave the heart of Oxfird by heading West in direction of the station but stop when you arrive on Hythe Bridge. Turn then right and join below the towpath along the canal. You'll then be heading North by following the waterways used by Malcolm in his recurrent whereabouts and birds observations: you'll first cross the canal by a little pedestrian bridge (beware the CCD agents!) and observe from the opposite shore the Italian-style campanile of St-Barnabas. Head further North for a little while until you finally reach Walton Well Bridge and leave the towpath by using an access ramp on your left and by crossing afterwards the nearby railway bridge to finally reach a dead-end parking lot in the southern boundary of Port Meadow. This is here that Lyra fights Gyptian kids with her fellow friends from the city at the very beginning of Northern Lights. A few yards from there stand the shores of the Thames (or the Isis, as you prefer!) while cows wander through the grassy ground and people ice-skate on winter days on nearby ponds. You can enjoy the silence, possibly the cold foggy atmosphere depending on the seasons and look at the many barges and boats mooring in the western neighbourhood. You can then head North along the existing paths accross the meadows and woods and after about two kilometers, you'll reach Wolvercote. If you followed the pathways through the meadow, on the Eastern shore of the Thames, you will have to turn left when reaching the town and head West accross Lower Wolvercote: after about one kilometer, you'll finally reach The Trout inn where you can imagine Malcolm at work and meet the very-real peacocks of the inn. Enjoy a drink or a dish or cross the nearby pair of bridges to reach the western side of the river where stand the ruins of Godstow Abbey. The only remains are a few walls from a chapel ornated with a hollow window frame and a surrounding fence. You might have to play with your imagination to recreate the setting of La Belle Sauvage's priory but you still can better represent yourself Malcolm crossing the river on his canoe with his very special guest to visit the nuns at night... From there, you can optionnaly even can walk further north following the river for about one more kilometer, and reach Duke's Lock, the canals junction where Malcolm leads his canoe (once again, in La Belle Sauvage). Depending on your schedule and exhaustion level, you have various possibilities to head back to Oxford:
Lyra, Mary & Hannah (approx 4.5km, 1h) From the Radcliffe Camera and St-Mary, follow Catte Street heading North, admiring Clarendon Quadrangle on your left and the WHisper Bridge on your right. Follow Parks Road while enjoying the surrounding gardens and keep that direction. You'll spot the Pitt-Rivers Museum on your right; you can visit it and look for trepanned skulls while being cautious about Sir Charles Latrom possibly waiting for your alethiometer. After that resume your path to the North and soon on your left you'll see concrete buildings appearing on the Lyra's Oxford's postcard; it is (was?) the working place of Mary Malone. Once you reach Norham Garden, follow that direction to discover more places represented in that postcard. You'll finally reach at the end of that street a big, red-bricked porch which marks the entrance of Lady Maragreth Hall, the counterpart in our world of Lyra's St-Sophia College, where she studies in Lyra's Oxford. Close to that place, the map available in Pullmans's red little book indicates Mary's living place. After that, you can use the way you used to come to head back to Oxford city center, but instead of heading south, you can first keep walking in direction of West to walk accross Banbury and Woodstock Roads, discover the Radcliffe Observatory and the Fell Press Building to end your way in Jericho: Juxon Street (living place of Sebastian Makepeace), Cranham Street (where Dame Hannah Relf lives), Little Clarendon Street (even if there's no restaurant called La Luna Caprese to eat at, even if that place existed a few decades ago on North Parade Road...) and the Jericho Tavern from The Butterfly Tattoo are just a few streets from where you stand.
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| Outside of Lyra's world... | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Even if these places have no link with Lyra, they're worth a visit... New College One of the many colleges of the city, portraiting Jordan College in the TV adaptation of His Dark Materials (gardens, quadrangle, chappel, roofs...). Lots to see here if you can visit - which has to be planned in advance. Story Museum By any weather, this museum close to Oxford city center is a good place for stories addicted youngs and olds. This place devoted to tales, stories and storytellers invites you into imaginary worlds and allows you to dress as your favorite characters, discover Sir Philip Pullman's original drawings for his trilogy and dive into your favorite stories. Many animations are held in this museum with new buildings being prepared for visitors. Museum's website History of sciences museum Located right in front of Blackwell's and next to Sheldonian Theater, a museum displaying a wide collection of astrolabes and temporary exhibits on dedicated topics. Worth the visit! Officiel website Ashmolean Museum We met in its cafeteria a dozen years ago a famous author for our first meeting and interview with him. This is also a place of many exhibitions and pieces of arts waiting for your visit... Officiel website Blackwell's Oxford One of the many libraries of Oxford, on Broad Street, facing the Sheldonian Theater. From the street we cannot expect its size but its lower floor, the Norrington room, has its place in the Guiness book of records for displayed the longest linear shelf in the world... Pub The Eagle and the Child Close to the center, on St-Giles Street, Tolkien and CS Lewis used to meet in this pub. This make another reason to visit this typical place providing you fine food and ales. Currently closed and for rent. Pub The Turf Tavern Qualifying itself a secret place in Oxford, this pub is to be found at the centre of a maze of narrow lanes and provides a wide range of proper meals and drinks. |
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| Guided tour? | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Experience Oxfordshire offers standard or themed Oxford guided tour... including one centered on Philip Pullman. This special tour brings you in the most iconic places of the city related to the author and his books, with many informations provided by your guide. In addition, you are given a copy of Lyra's map from Lyra's Oxford! It is recommended that you book in advance your tour. More details on Philip Pullman Oxford tour |
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| Lyra's Oxford map | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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The map included to Lyra's short adventure (2003) is a little wonder which can guide you through our Oxford while seeing it through Lyra's eyes: some colleges' names differ and some buildings also vary between both worlds but it is definitely a lovely experience to discover the city by wandering with this very map in your hands...
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| Copyright | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Except special mention, all pics are from Haku for Cittàgazze.com. Last update: 07/02/2023 |
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